I love Japan. But Kyoto has become a zoo. Last year, I visited Kiyomizu-dera temple and spent more time avoiding selfie sticks than actually enjoying the view. So when I started planning my 2026 fall trip, I wanted somewhere quieter. Somewhere that still felt like old Japan. That's when I discovered Kinosaki Onsen, a small town in Hyogo Prefecture that's been a hot spring destination for over 1,300 years. It was everything I needed and more.
What Makes Kinosaki Special?
Kinosaki is a town built around seven public bathhouses, each with its own character and mineral composition. You buy a pass (about $12) that gets you into all of them. The streets are lined with traditional ryokans (Japanese inns), and everyone walks around in yukata and geta (wooden clogs). It's like stepping into a ukiyo-e print. The town is also home to a canal with willow trees, a ropeway up Mount Daishi, and some of the best crab I've ever eaten.
The Baths: A Soaking Ritual
The tradition is to visit multiple baths in one evening. Start at Sato no Yu, which has a rotemburo (outdoor bath) overlooking a waterfall. Then walk to Ichino Yu, which has a sauna and a cold plunge pool. My favorite was Gosho no Yu, a palatial bathhouse with a two-story wooden facade that looks like a temple. Each bath has a different mineral content—some are rich in iron, others in sulfur—and they all leave your skin feeling like silk. The key is to go slow. Don't rush. Soak, rest, drink water, and move on.
Where to Stay: Ryokan Experience
I stayed at Nishimuraya Honkan, a 300-year-old ryokan that's been run by the same family for generations. The rooms are minimalist—tatami mats, futon beds, a low table with tea. The kaiseki dinner was a 12-course affair featuring local crab, abalone, and wagyu beef. The highlight was the 'onsen tamago,' an egg slow-cooked in the hot spring water. It was the best egg I've ever eaten. The staff, mostly elderly women in kimono, treated me like a long-lost relative. It's expensive (around $400 per night), but it's worth every yen.