I've wanted to go to Santorini for years. The white-washed buildings, the blue domes, the sunsets over the caldera—it's the kind of place that looks like a screensaver. And it is. But here's the thing nobody tells you: it's also a theme park. I went last week, in mid-June, and it was absolutely packed. I'm talking shoulder-to-shoulder crowds on the main streets of Oia, 45-minute waits for a table at lunch, and tour groups blocking every photo spot. The sunset? Beautiful. But I watched it while sandwiched between 200 other people holding phones. Not the romantic experience I imagined.
The Crowd Problem
Santorini had 3.4 million visitors in 2025, according to the Greek tourism board. That's up 12% from 2024. The island is tiny—about 30 square miles. Most of the tourists cram into two towns: Fira and Oia. In June, the cruise ships start arriving. On the day I was there, four cruise ships docked, disgorging about 12,000 passengers. Every restaurant, every shop, every viewpoint was swamped. I talked to a local shopkeeper who told me it's been like this since April. 'We love tourism,' she said. 'But this is too much. We can't keep up.'
The Cost
Prices have skyrocketed. A basic hotel room in Oia with a caldera view starts at €400 a night in June. I stayed in a smaller hotel in Firostefani (a 15-minute walk from Fira) for €250 a night, and it was fine—but no view. Dinner for two with a bottle of local wine cost me €120 at a mid-range taverna. That's not outrageous for a vacation, but it's a lot for what you get. The service was rushed, the food was fine, and the table was inches from the next couple. I felt like I was in a cafeteria, not a romantic getaway.
Where to Go Instead: Milos
Here's the good news: you don't have to skip the Cyclades. You just need to skip Santorini. I took a ferry to Milos, about two hours away. It's less famous, but it has the same volcanic landscape, the same stunning beaches, and a fraction of the tourists. The beaches are incredible—Sarakiniko has white rock formations that look like the moon, and Firiplaka has colored cliffs. There are no cruise ships. The main town, Plaka, is a maze of narrow streets with gorgeous views and no crowds. I had dinner at a place called Archontissa, overlooking the sea, and it was one of the best meals of my life—grilled octopus, fresh tomatoes, local cheese. Total: €45 for two. I stayed in a boutique hotel in Pollonia for €180 a night. The owner gave me a map and marked her favorite spots. That's the kind of experience I wanted.
Other Alternatives
If you're set on the Santorini aesthetic—the blue domes, the white walls—try the island of Sifnos. It's less famous, but it has beautiful villages like Kastro and Apollonia. The food scene is incredible; Sifnos is known as a culinary island. Also consider Paros. It's bigger, with more to do, and the town of Naoussa has a charm that rivals Oia without the selfie sticks. Or skip Greece entirely and look at Croatia's Hvar or Italy's Procida. Both have that Mediterranean magic without the theme park vibe.
Final Thoughts
Look, I don't want to be the guy who tells you not to go somewhere. Santorini is beautiful. If you go in the off-season—November, February—you might have a better experience. But in June, July, or August? It's a zoo. I'd rather go to Milos, spend half the money, and actually enjoy my vacation. The sunset is just as orange, the wine is just as good, and you can hear yourself think. That's worth everything.
