I love Italy. I really do. But last summer, I stood in line for two hours to see the Colosseum, paid 12 euros for a sad slice of pizza near the Trevi Fountain, and got elbowed by a tourist on the Amalfi Coast. It was miserable. So this year, I decided to try something different. I'd heard whispers about Albania—cheap, beautiful, and still off the beaten path. I booked a flight to Tirana, rented a car, and spent a week driving down the Albanian Riviera. And honestly? It was the best travel decision I've made in years.
Albania is having a moment. The country has been opening up to tourism slowly since the end of communism in the 1990s, but 2026 seems to be the year it's finally getting noticed. Direct flights from major European cities have increased, and a new highway along the coast makes it easier to get around. But here's the key: it's still not crowded. I went in early June, which is peak season for Greece and Italy, and I had entire beaches to myself. Let me walk you through my trip.
Day 1-2: Tirana – A City That's Weirdly Cool
I landed in Tirana, the capital, and was immediately struck by the architecture. It's a mix of communist-era concrete blocks and colorful modern buildings. The city center has a massive square called Skanderbeg Square, which is pedestrian-only and full of families and street performers. I stayed at a boutique hotel called Hotel Viktoria for €60 a night. The room was clean, the staff was friendly, and the breakfast included homemade jam and fresh cheese. I spent the first day visiting the Bunk'Art museum—a Cold War bunker turned into a museum about Albania's communist past. It was fascinating and depressing. The audio tour tells stories of people who were imprisoned for criticizing the government. It gives you perspective.
For dinner, I went to a restaurant called Oda in the Blloku district, which used to be the communist elite's neighborhood. Now it's full of cafes and bars. I ordered a plate of fërgesë, a traditional dish with peppers, tomatoes, and cottage cheese, and a glass of local red wine. Total bill: €12. The food was incredible—hearty and fresh. I also tried raki, the local firewater. It's like grappa but stronger. I had one glass and felt like I'd been hit by a truck. Proceed with caution.
Day 3-4: Berat – The City of a Thousand Windows
I drove south to Berat, a UNESCO World Heritage site known for its Ottoman-era houses stacked on a hillside. The drive was beautiful—winding roads through green valleys. Berat is called the City of a Thousand Windows because the houses have huge windows that reflect the sun. I stayed in a guesthouse run by an elderly couple for €35 a night. They made me breakfast every morning: eggs, bread, olives, and homemade honey. I spent the day walking the cobblestone streets and visiting Berat Castle, which is still inhabited. The views from the top are stunning. I had lunch at a restaurant called Lili, where I tried tave kosi, a baked lamb and yogurt dish. It was comfort food at its finest. Cost: €8.