How We Got Here
It's June 2026. Cultured meat โ meat grown from animal cells in a bioreactor โ has been legal for sale in the US since June 2023. In three years, the industry has gone from novelty to... well, still a novelty, but a growing one. The FDA and USDA have approved five companies for production. The products are showing up in high-end restaurants and a few specialty grocery stores. But the big question remains: does it taste good?
I decided to find out. I ordered samples from four companies: UPSIDE Foods (the first to get FDA approval), GOOD Meat (the first to sell in Singapore), Believer Meats (formerly Future Meat, now with a massive factory in North Carolina), and a new startup called Omeat that claims to have solved the texture problem. I prepared all four blind, cooked them the same way (pan-seared with salt and pepper), and tasted them alongside a conventional organic chicken breast as a control.
The Control: Conventional Chicken
Before we talk about cultured meat, let's establish a baseline. I bought a Bell & Evans organic chicken breast from Whole Foods. I seasoned it with salt and pepper, seared it in olive oil for 4 minutes per side, and let it rest. The texture was firm but tender, with visible muscle fibers that pulled apart easily. The flavor was clean, slightly savory, with that unmistakable chicken taste. It's the standard every cultured meat needs to meet.
UPSIDE Foods: The Closest to Real Chicken
UPSIDE's sample came frozen in a vacuum-sealed bag. The packaging said "Chicken Breast Fillet." I thawed it overnight and cooked it the same way as the control. The first thing I noticed was the smell โ it smelled like chicken. Not exactly the same, but close. There was a slightly metallic undertone, like what you get when you microwave chicken instead of pan-searing it.
The taste? Honestly, pretty good. The texture was the standout. It had real muscle structure. When I cut into it, I could see what looked like grain lines. It wasn't as tender as the control โ it was a bit firmer, almost like a chicken thigh that's been cooked a minute too long. But the flavor was convincing. My wife, who didn't know which was which, said "that's the real one, right?" when she tasted it. It wasn't the real one. It was UPSIDE.
I'd give UPSIDE an 8/10 for taste and 7/10 for texture. If I served it in a stir-fry or a curry, I doubt anyone would notice.
GOOD Meat: The Loser
GOOD Meat's product was a ground chicken format โ basically ground meat shaped into a patty. The texture was the biggest issue. It was mushy, like a cheap veggie burger. There was no fibrous structure. It fell apart when I tried to flip it in the pan. The flavor was bland, with a faint sour note that I can only describe as "bioreactor taste." It was the only sample I couldn't finish.
To GOOD Meat's credit, they focus on ground products, not whole cuts. Their chicken is meant for nuggets, patties, and sausages. In those applications, the texture issues might be masked by breading and seasoning. But as a standalone product, it's not ready. I'd give it a 4/10.
Believer Meats: The Texture Pioneer
Believer Meats took a different approach. Instead of growing cells in a scaffold, they use a proprietary process they call "structured growth" that forms muscle fibers directly in the bioreactor. The result is a product with real texture. Their chicken breast looked like a chicken breast. It had the striations, the fat cap, everything.