I almost canceled my trip to Santorini this June. Every Instagram post, every TikTok, every travel article warned me: it's too crowded, too expensive, too hot. The island was supposedly ruined by mass tourism. Cruise ships dump thousands of people into Fira every morning. The famous sunset at Oia is a zoo. I was this close to changing my plans and going to Milos instead.
But I went anyway. And I'm really glad I did. Not because the warnings were wrong — they weren't — but because I found ways to experience the real Santorini that the crowds don't touch. Here's how.
Skip the Famous Sunset Spot
The sunset view from Oia's castle is the most photographed spot in Greece. It's also miserable. Hundreds of people cram into a small space, jostling for position, phones held high. I went once, saw the chaos, and left. Instead, I walked to the little church of Agios Spiridonas, about 15 minutes away. There were maybe 10 other people there. The view was just as stunning. The sunset was spectacular. I sat on a stone wall with a bottle of local wine and watched the sky turn orange and purple. That was my moment.
Where to Stay (and Where Not To)
I stayed in Pyrgos, a medieval village in the center of the island. Most tourists stay in Fira or Oia. Pyrgos is quiet, authentic, and full of narrow winding streets. My hotel, a restored 17th-century mansion, had a rooftop pool overlooking the entire island. I could see the caldera from my bed. It cost half of what a similar room in Oia would cost. And at night, the village was silent except for the sound of cicadas. I had dinner at a family-run taverna called Kritikos where the owner brought me dessert "from my grandmother's recipe." It was the best meal of my trip.