Santorini in 2026: Is It Still Worth the Hype?

I have a complicated relationship with Santorini. I've been three times now — first in 2019 (pre-crowds), then 2022 (post-pandemic revenge travel), and now in June 2026. Each time, the island has felt more crowded, more expensive, and more curated for Instagram. I told myself this would be the last visit. But somehow, I keep coming back.

Here's the thing about Santorini: the sunset views from Oia are objectively stunning. The caldera is one of the most dramatic landscapes on Earth. The wine is excellent. But in 2026, the island is dealing with a tourism crisis. Over 3 million visitors expected this year, up from 2.5 million in 2023. The narrow streets of Fira and Oia are packed shoulder-to-shoulder from 10 AM to 7 PM. Hotel rooms in Oia start at €400 a night for a basic room. And yet, I still had a magical trip. How? I found the parts of Santorini that the crowds haven't discovered. Here's how you can too.

The Problem with Mainstream Santorini

Let me paint a picture. It's 5 PM in Oia, and I'm standing at the famous Byzantine Castle ruins, where everyone gathers for sunset. There are probably 300 people crammed into a space designed for 50. Selfie sticks everywhere. A woman in heels is struggling to stand on the uneven stones. A man is arguing with his girlfriend about whether the photo is 'golden hour enough.' The sunset itself is beautiful, but the experience is miserable.

That's the version of Santorini that most tourists experience. They arrive on a cruise ship (up to 8,000 passengers per day in peak season), spend 6 hours in Fira and Oia, take 47 photos, and leave thinking they've seen the island. They haven't. Not even close.

The Alternative: Stay in the South

Here's the secret: the southern part of Santorini — around Akrotiri, Vlychada, and the Red Beach — is less crowded, less expensive, and arguably more beautiful. I stayed in a small guesthouse in Akrotiri called 'Villa Notos' for €120 a night. It's a family-run place with a pool overlooking the caldera. The views are as good as Oia's, but you're sharing them with maybe 10 other guests. The owner, Maria, told me that 80% of her guests are repeat visitors. That tells you something.

From Akrotiri, you can walk to the Red Beach (10 minutes) or the White Beach (20 minutes). Both are stunning, with dramatic red and white cliffs. The water is clean and warm. In June, I had the beaches mostly to myself on weekdays. Compare that to the packed beaches in Kamari or Perissa — it's night and day.

Eat Where the Locals Eat

I made a rule: no restaurant that has a menu in five languages. No place with a waiter standing outside trying to lure you in. Instead, I followed the locals. In Akrotiri, I found a taverna called 'To Psaraki' that's been open since 1982. No website. No Instagram. Just a handwritten menu on a chalkboard. I had grilled octopus (€12) that was so tender it melted on my tongue. The owner, Dimitris, came out to chat and poured me a glass of his homemade raki. 'Tourists don't come here,' he said, smiling. 'They're too busy in Oia.'

Another gem: 'Metaxi Mas' in Exo Gonia, a tiny village in the interior. It's a family-run taverna that serves traditional Santorinian dishes like fava (yellow split pea puree), tomato keftedes (tomato fritters), and apaki (smoked pork). The wine list is all local. A meal for two with wine costs about €50. In Oia, that same meal would be €150.

The Wine Tour You're Skipping

Santorini has some of the most unique wines in the world. The volcanic soil produces grapes with high acidity and minerality. The Assyrtiko grape — which grows nowhere else at scale — makes a crisp, citrusy white wine that pairs perfectly with seafood. But the wine tours in Fira are overpriced and crowded. Instead, I booked a tour with 'Santorini Wine Adventures,' a small company run by a sommelier named Elena. She took me to three wineries that don't get bus tours: Gavalas (a 150-year-old family winery), Hatzidakis (known for their natural wines), and Vassaltis (a newer winery with stunning views).

The cost was €80 per person, including tastings and a light lunch. Compare that to the big tours that cost €120 and take you to Santo Wines (good, but crowded). Elena also told me something that changed the way I think about Santorini wine: 'The best Assyrtiko is aged in stainless steel, not oak. It's meant to taste like the island — salty, mineral, pure.' She was right.

The Hike from Fira to Oia (Do It at 6 AM)

The famous 10-kilometer hike from Fira to Oia along the caldera rim is one of the best things to do on the island. But doing it at noon in July is a death wish. I started at 6 AM, when the sun was just rising. The temperature was 22°C (72°F) instead of 35°C (95°F). I saw exactly 7 other people on the trail. The views are breathtaking — you're walking along the edge of a volcanic crater, with the deep blue Aegean on one side and white-washed villages on the other. The hike took about 3 hours with stops for photos. I arrived in Oia at 9 AM, just as the first cruise ship passengers were starting to trickle in. I had a coffee at a quiet cafe, then took a bus back to Fira (€2). It was the best decision I made all trip.

The Hidden Beaches

Everyone knows about the Red Beach and the Black Beach (Perissa). But there are other beaches that most tourists miss. Vlychada Beach is a long stretch of dark sand with dramatic cliffs that look like a moonscape. There's a small canteen that sells fresh grilled fish and beer. Kolumbo Beach, near Oia, is a pebble beach with incredibly clear water. It's a 20-minute walk from Oia, but most tourists don't bother. I had it almost to myself on a Tuesday afternoon.

And then there's the secret beach: a tiny cove near Akrotiri called 'Lighthouse Beach.' You have to walk down a steep, unmarked path from the Akrotiri lighthouse. It's about 15 minutes of careful scrambling. But at the bottom is a small sandy beach with turquoise water and no one else. I spent two hours there, swimming and reading, and it felt like my own private island. Don't tell anyone I told you.

Is It Worth the Hype?

Here's my honest answer: yes, but only if you do it right. If you stay in Oia, eat at tourist-trap restaurants, and take the cruise ship tour, you'll have an expensive, crowded, and disappointing trip. If you stay in the south, eat where locals eat, hike early, and find the hidden beaches, you'll have one of the best travel experiences of your life. Santorini is not broken. It's just that most people experience it wrong.

I'm already planning my fourth trip. This time, I'm going in October — after the crowds thin out but before the weather turns. I'll stay in the same guesthouse in Akrotiri, eat at the same taverna, and hike the same trail at sunrise. And I'll leave the selfie stick at home.