When I heard that Believe Cell was opening in Austin — the first restaurant in Texas to serve exclusively lab-grown meat — I had two reactions. First: of course it's in Austin, that city is weird enough to make this work. Second: I bet it tastes like cardboard with marketing sauce.
I've been following the cultivated meat industry for years. I've read the studies, watched the debates, seen the regulatory battles. But I had never actually tasted it. So when Believe Cell announced their soft opening last weekend, I drove down from Dallas to see what the fuss was about.
I brought three friends with me. One is a devout carnivore who insists that rare steak is a human right. One is a vegetarian who's been hoping for this for a decade. And one is an actual chef who runs a barbecue joint in Lockhart. I wanted a range of opinions.
What happened over the next two hours surprised all of us.
The Restaurant Itself: Not What I Expected
Believe Cell is not some futuristic lab with white walls and holographic menus. It's a warm, wood-paneled space on South Congress with exposed brick, a long bar, and the smell of good food. If you didn't know better, you'd think it was just another upscale Austin restaurant.
The centerpiece of the room is a glass-walled "cultivation room" where you can see the bioreactors growing the meat. It looks like a small brewery crossed with a biology lab. Tanks of nutrient solution, gleaming stainless steel, tubes running everywhere. It's actually kind of beautiful in a weird way.
The menu is small — six main dishes, all made from either chicken or beef grown on-site. Prices are high ($28 for a burger, $34 for chicken piccata), but they told us those should come down as production scales up.
The Burger: This Is the Real Test
I ordered the "Texas Classic" burger — a quarter-pound patty of cultivated beef with cheddar, lettuce, tomato, and a house-made sauce. My carnivore friend got the same. The chef ordered it medium-rare. The vegetarian got the chicken sandwich.
First bite: I closed my eyes and tried to be objective. The texture was... exactly right. A good burger should have a slight crust on the outside and a tender, juicy interior. This had both. The flavor was beefy — not exactly like grass-fed beef, but closer to a high-quality conventional burger. There was a slight difference I couldn't quite place. Maybe a tiny bit less fat? A little cleaner on the finish?
My carnivore friend took a bite, chewed slowly, and said "I wouldn't know this wasn't real meat if you didn't tell me." That's a direct quote.