I Spent a Weekend in Santorini During the ‘Overcrowding Crisis’ – Here’s What It’s Actually Like

If you’ve been on Instagram lately, you’ve probably seen the videos: tourists stacked on top of each other in Oia, waiting for the sunset. Headlines scream that Santorini is dying from overtourism. The mayor actually proposed a cap on cruise ship visitors this year. I read all that, and I still booked a flight. I’m stubborn like that.

I spent last weekend—June 26 to June 28—on the island. And I’m here to tell you: the hype is real, but it’s also misleading. Yes, Oia at sunset is a nightmare. But Santorini is more than that one photo spot. You just have to know where to go.

The Sunset in Oia Is a Zoo (But You Already Knew That)

I made the mistake of going to the castle ruins in Oia for sunset on Saturday. It was packed—hundreds of people jostling for a spot on the walls, selfie sticks everywhere, people arguing over who got there first. It was genuinely unpleasant. The sunset itself was beautiful, but I spent most of it worrying about my wallet. The crowd was that dense.

Honestly? Skip it. There are better places to watch the sunset on Santorini. I’ll tell you about them in a second.

Where to Go Instead

On Sunday, I asked a local friend (shoutout to Dimitris, who runs a small taverna in Pyrgos) where he watches the sunset. He told me to go to the village of Imerovigli, specifically the spot near the Skaros Rock. It’s a 20-minute walk from the main path, and there were maybe 15 people there when I went. The view is just as good as Oia—maybe better, because you’re higher up. I sat on a rock and watched the sun dip into the caldera without anyone blocking my view.

Another tip: go to the town of Akrotiri for sunset. It’s on the south end of the island, and it’s much quieter. There’s a lighthouse there with a panoramic view. I went there for sunrise one day and had the place to myself.

The Food Is Incredible (If You Avoid the Touristy Spots)

Everyone goes to the restaurants with the caldera views in Fira or Oia. And those are fine—the food is good, but you’re paying for the view. The real magic happens in the inland villages. I had the best meal of my trip at a place called “Metaxi Mas” in Exo Gonia. It’s a family-run taverna with no view at all, just a courtyard with grapevines overhead. I had tomato fritters, grilled octopus, and a lamb dish that I still dream about. Total bill for two people with wine: €45.

Compare that to the €80 I spent on mediocre pasta in Fira. Do yourself a favor and eat where the locals eat.

The Beach Situation Is Weird

Santorini isn’t really a beach destination—most of the beaches have black sand or pebbles, and they’re not very wide. But Kamari Beach and Perissa Beach are decent. They’re both on the east coast, away from the caldera. The water is clear, and there are plenty of sunbeds (€15 for two). The crowds are manageable, mostly families and couples. I spent an afternoon at Perissa and it was lovely.

If you want a proper beach, go to Red Beach, but be warned: it’s small, rocky, and gets packed by noon.

The Cruise Ship Problem Is Real

I saw four cruise ships in the harbor on Saturday. When they disembark, Fira and Oia become impossible to walk through. The mayor’s proposal to limit ships to 8,000 visitors a day makes sense. But until that happens, plan your days around the cruise schedule. You can check it online—avoid the main towns between 11 am and 3 pm, when the ship tours are at their peak.

Should You Go?

Yes, but with a plan. Stay in a village like Pyrgos or Megalochori instead of Fira or Oia. Rent a car (or ATV) to explore. Eat inland. Watch sunset from Imerovigli or Akrotiri. Santorini is still one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever seen—the white buildings against the blue sea is a cliché for a reason. But if you treat it like a checklist, you’ll be miserable. Go with intention, and you’ll have a trip you’ll never forget.

Just don’t go to the castle in Oia at sunset. Trust me.