I Spent 10 Days in Iceland's Highlands in June 2026 — Here's What Nobody Tells You

I've been dreaming of Iceland's Highlands for years. The photos online show endless black sand deserts, turquoise glacial rivers, and moss-covered lava fields. So when I finally booked a 10-day trip in June 2026 — during the summer solstice, no less — I was hyped. But after spending $4,500, driving a rented Toyota Land Cruiser over gravel roads, and nearly getting stuck in a river crossing, I have some thoughts. The Highlands are incredible, but they're not for everyone. Here's what I wish I knew before going.

The Logistics Are a Nightmare

First, let's talk about getting there. The Highlands start about 200 kilometers east of Reykjavik, but they're not accessible by regular car. You need a 4x4 with high clearance — think a Jeep Wrangler or a Land Cruiser. I rented from Blue Car Rental at Keflavik Airport for $250 per day. That's $2,500 for 10 days, plus insurance ($30 per day) and fuel (another $500). The roads are unpaved F-roads, which are graded but still bumpy and dusty. You'll average 30 km/h on some sections. I planned to drive to Landmannalaugar, a famous geothermal area, and it took me 4 hours to cover 60 kilometers.

Then there's the weather. In June, the Highlands are technically "summer," but it still rained three of my 10 days. The temperature hovered around 8-12°C (46-54°F). I wore a base layer, fleece, and waterproof jacket every day. The wind is relentless — I clocked gusts of 60 km/h on a ridge. You need proper gear: hiking boots, gaiters, and a warm hat. Pack layers, not a heavy coat.

The Beauty Is Real but Fleeting

Okay, enough complaining. The landscapes are genuinely otherworldly. The first day, I hiked to the base of Mount Hekla, an active volcano. The ground was black ash, and the sky was a pale blue. I felt like I was on Mars. The third day, I visited the Fjallabak Nature Reserve, where the mountains are green and orange from rhyolite. The colors are so vivid they look fake. I took a photo that got 200 likes on Instagram, but the real experience was better. The silence is deafening — no birds, no wind, just stillness.

The hot springs are a highlight. Landmannalaugar has a natural hot spring that you can soak in after a hike. I went in at 10 PM (it was still light, thanks to the midnight sun) and sat in 38°C water while looking at snow-capped mountains. It was surreal. But here's the catch: the hot spring is small and crowded. I shared it with 15 other people. To avoid crowds, go at 6 AM or midnight.

The Dangers Are Real

I almost got into serious trouble on day 5. I was driving the F208 road, which crosses a river called the Holmsa. The water was deeper than expected — about 60 centimeters. My Land Cruiser started to float, and I panicked. I reversed slowly, but the current pushed me sideways. I eventually made it across, but my heart was pounding. I later learned that river crossings in Iceland claim lives every year. The advice? Always check the water depth with a stick before crossing. Don't go alone. And if the water is above the axles, turn around.

Another danger: the weather can change in minutes. On day 7, I hiked up a ridge near Langisjór lake, and the sun was shining. Thirty minutes later, a fog rolled in so thick I couldn't see 5 meters ahead. I had to sit down and wait for 45 minutes until it cleared. I had a GPS device, but my phone had no signal. I now carry a satellite messenger (the Garmin inReach Mini 2, which I bought for $400). It's worth every penny.

The Cost Will Shock You

I budgeted $3,000 for the trip, but I spent $4,500. The car rental and fuel were the biggest costs. Food is expensive in Iceland — a burger and fries in a remote gas station cost $25. I brought my own dehydrated meals from REI, which saved money but tasted like cardboard. Accommodation is also pricey. I stayed in mountain huts run by the Icelandic Touring Association (Ferðafélag Íslands), which cost $80 per night for a bunk bed. They're basic — shared bathrooms, no showers — but they're the only option. I booked three months in advance, and they were still almost full.

Is It Worth It?

Yes, but with caveats. The Highlands are for adventurous travelers who don't mind discomfort. If you want luxury, go to the Blue Lagoon and stay in Reykjavik. But if you want to see a landscape that looks like another planet, the Highlands deliver. I'll never forget the feeling of standing alone in a valley of black sand, with no sound except my own breathing. It's humbling and awe-inspiring. Just be prepared: bring a satellite messenger, pack warm clothes, and don't underestimate the river crossings. Iceland's Highlands are not a vacation. They're an expedition. And I'm already planning my next visit.