I Grew Mushroom Leather in My Kitchen: The Future of Sustainable Fashion Is Weird

I’ll admit: when I first heard about mushroom leather, I thought it was a gimmick. Something that would fall apart after a week. But then I read about MycoWorks, a company that’s been supplying mycelium-based leather to Hermès and other luxury brands. Their latest product, called Reishi, is supposedly indistinguishable from cowhide. I decided to try growing my own. Spoiler alert: it worked, and it’s way more interesting than I expected.

What Actually Is Mushroom Leather?

It’s not like you’re wearing a mushroom cap. Mycelium is the root-like structure of fungi — think of it as the underground network. Companies like MycoWorks and Ecovative grow mycelium in trays, then process it into sheets that mimic leather. The material is biodegradable, requires no animal farming, and uses 90% less water than traditional leather. It’s also strong — tensile tests show it matches cowhide in durability.

I bought a mycelium growing kit from Ecovative’s home-use branch. It cost $49 and came with a bag of sterilized sawdust and a syringe of mycelium spores. The instructions were simple: inject the spores, let it sit in a warm, dark place for 10 days, then harvest the mycelium.

The Growing Process Was Surprisingly Easy

Day 1: I injected the spores into the sawdust bag. It looked like nothing was happening. Day 3: White fuzz started covering the surface. Day 5: The entire bag was solid white — like a block of marshmallow. Day 7: I transferred the mycelium to a flat tray to let it grow into a sheet. By day 10, I had a thin, leather-like material that I could peel off.

It smelled like fresh mushrooms — not unpleasant. The texture was surprisingly tough. I could fold it, stretch it slightly, and even cut it with scissors. The final step was to press it under a heavy book for 48 hours to flatten it. Then I applied a natural wax coating to make it water-resistant.

Making a Wallet: The Real Test

I’m not a professional, but I found a simple wallet pattern online. I cut two pieces of my mycelium leather, punched holes, and stitched them together with waxed thread. The result? A functional wallet that feels like suede. It’s not as smooth as traditional leather, but it has a unique, organic texture. I’ve been using it for a week now. It’s held up fine — no tearing, and the color has darkened slightly from handling.

Would I wear a jacket made from this? Maybe. Larger-scale production is smoother because they use controlled environments. My homegrown version is a bit uneven, but it’s still impressive for something I grew in my kitchen.

The Environmental Impact Is Real

Traditional leather production is brutal. Cows require massive amounts of land, water, and feed. Tanning uses toxic chemicals like chromium. Mushroom leather skips all that. MycoWorks claims their process produces 95% less CO2 than cowhide. And since mycelium grows in days instead of years, it’s scalable. Hermès already released a mycelium-based handbag in 2024 called the Victoria, and it sold out in hours.

But there’s a catch: current mycelium leather is still more expensive than synthetic alternatives like polyurethane. A myco-based jacket might cost $500, while a synthetic one is $100. That price gap is shrinking, though. Ecovative just opened a new facility in New York that can produce 10,000 square feet per day.

Would I Recommend It?

If you’re a DIY enthusiast, absolutely. Growing your own leather is a fun experiment and a great conversation starter. But if you’re looking for a ready-made alternative, brands like MycoWorks and Bolt Threads (makers of Mylo) are your best bet. I’m planning to try growing a larger sheet for a bag next.

The future of fashion might not come from a cow. It might come from a mushroom. And honestly, that’s kind of exciting.