I Ate at the New Lab-Grown Meat Restaurant in San Francisco—Here’s What It Really Tastes Like

Is This the Future of Dining?

Last Tuesday, a restaurant called “Cultivate” opened in San Francisco’s Mission District, and it’s the first place in the US to serve exclusively lab-grown meat. I’ve been following the cultivated meat industry for years—the science, the hype, the controversies. So when I heard they were doing a dinner service, I booked a table immediately. The menu features chicken, beef, and pork, all grown from animal cells in bioreactors. No animals were harmed. But the big question on everyone’s mind: does it taste like the real thing? I went with a skeptical friend who’s a butcher. Here’s what we thought.

The Science Behind the Plate

Cultivate sources its meat from Upside Foods and Good Meat, two companies that have been at the forefront of cultivated meat since USDA approval in 2023. The process starts with a small sample of animal cells, which are fed nutrients in a stainless steel tank. Over a few weeks, they multiply into muscle tissue, which is then harvested and formed into cuts or ground meat. It’s real animal meat, just grown without the animal. The environmental benefits are huge—less land, less water, and no methane emissions. But the taste test is what matters.

First Course: Cultivated Chicken Wings

We started with buffalo chicken wings. The presentation was normal—crispy, saucy, with blue cheese dip. I took a bite, and honestly, it was indistinguishable from traditional chicken wings. The texture was spot on—juicy inside, crispy outside. The only difference was a subtle flavor difference—my friend said it tasted “cleaner,” less gamey than factory-farmed chicken. I didn’t notice until he pointed it out. The wings were delicious, and I would eat them again without hesitation.

Second Course: Cultivated Beef Burger

The burger was the main event. It was a thick patty, cooked medium-rare, topped with cheddar and caramelized onions. The first thing I noticed was the smell—it had that beefy aroma you get from a good grill. The taste was rich and savory, with a slight umami kick. But the texture was off. It was a bit softer than a traditional burger, almost like a well-made veggie patty. It didn’t have the same “snap” when you bite into it. My friend, the butcher, was more critical. He said it lacked the marbling and fat content of real beef, making it drier. I enjoyed it, but it wasn’t a perfect replica. Still, it was a solid burger.

Third Course: Cultivated Pork Belly

Pork belly is tough to replicate because it’s fatty and layered. The lab-grown version was surprisingly good. The fat had a nice melt-in-your-mouth quality, and the meat was tender. It was seasoned with a soy glaze that complemented the flavor. My friend said it was the best dish of the night, and I agreed. The texture was closest to real pork belly. If all cultivated meat were this good, I’d switch tomorrow.

The Price and Experience

The tasting menu cost $120 per person, which is steep. Cultivated meat is still expensive to produce—this meal likely cost the restaurant more than they charged. But the experience was worth it for the novelty. The restaurant itself is modern, with open kitchens and informative displays about the science. The staff were passionate and answered all our questions. It felt like dining in a museum of the future.

The Ethical and Environmental Case

Beyond the taste, there’s a compelling reason to embrace cultivated meat. Traditional animal agriculture is responsible for 14.5% of global greenhouse gas emissions, according to the UN. Cultivated meat can reduce emissions by up to 92% and use 95% less land. It also eliminates animal slaughter. For me, that matters. But the industry faces hurdles: scaling up production, reducing costs, and winning over skeptical consumers. The taste will improve as the technology matures. For now, it’s a promising start.

Would I Go Back?

Yes, but not regularly at these prices. I’d love to see Cultivate offer more affordable options, like a lunch combo. The wings and pork belly were standouts, while the burger needs work. If you’re curious about the future of food, I highly recommend visiting. It’s a unique experience that sparks conversation. My butcher friend left impressed but unconvinced. I left hopeful. Lab-grown meat isn’t perfect yet, but it’s getting close. And for the planet, that’s a good thing.